Friday, September 19, 2014

Joshua Kissi of Street Etiquette, Wall Street, New York

Thursday, September 18, 2014

Amazing Afro outside G-Star, Wall Street, New York

Spotted her on the steps from some 200 feet away. One of my favorite looks from Fashion Week. 

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Jilly Peppa, Outside G-Star, Wall St, New York

Jilly Peppa is executive editorial assistant at WeTheUrban, as well as the blogger behind Manufactured1987 and her eponymous Tumblr.She has also been featured in a recent Diesel campaign, and I think that's how I first became aware of her. I ran into her outside the runway show for G-Star, down in the unlikely location of Wall Street, amidst all the imposing stone architecture and tour guides in top hats. Tyler Joe (shooting for Marie Claire) and I decided to head down there for what promised to be amazing light and a picturesque location. The light, as it turns out, was a bit dimmer than we expected, and the location was so overcrowded with suits and tourists, it was hard to get a good shot. But the two of us were just about the only street style photographers down there, and for the first time all day, we got to spend a little bit of time getting to know our subjects. I got some of my favorite shots from Fashion Week there, including this one of Jilly. I'll be posting some of my other shots from outside G-Star the rest of the week. 

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Outside Costello Tagliapetra, 15th St, New York

Monday, September 15, 2014

Karl-Edwin Guerre, Pier 59, New York

Sunday, September 14, 2014

Preetma Singh, Outside Peter Som, 15th St, New York

And continuing the green hair theme from yesterday, it's Preetma Singh, Market Editor for the Wall Street Journal. To be fair, though, Preetma did it first. Green hair has become something of her signature, since she quit her job as a lawyer several years back to pursue (a far less lucrative but possibly more personally fulfilling) career in fashion. Thank you, Preetma, for always being nice to the hard-working photographers out there on the sidewalk. 

Saturday, September 13, 2014

Irene Kim, before Creature of Comfort

Friday, September 12, 2014

Natalie Suarez of Natalie Off Duty, after BCBG Max Azria

Thursday, September 11, 2014

Goodbye, Anna Wintour and the Gang. I am Done with New York Fashion Week for this Year.

Anna Wintour leaving the Reed Krakoff presentation.
 Fashion Week is like that first cigarette a nicotine fiend imbibes in the morning after a night of heavy drinking and smoking. It's gross. He doesn't exactly want it or enjoy it. But he's not about to not have it either. After every day of shooting at NYFW I feel done with it. I've chased enough editors paparazzi-style down the exit routes of shows. I've flattered the egos of enough rising starlets. But by the next morning I need a new fix. I need new pictures, new dopamine rushes. I size up everyone who passes by.
After shooting Day 6 of New York Fashion Week this season, however, I felt really and truly done. My energy had flagged. My enthusiasm was gone. And I was no longer getting a rush after securing a good shot. It all just felt like more of the same. It was time to pack my bag and go. So goodbye, Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week. Goodbye Lincoln Center, Milk Studios, Spring Studios, Pier 59, and the other venues. Goodbye Anna Wintour, Eva Chen, Margaret Zhang, Rachel Wang, and the rest of the editor gang. Goodbye Tyler Joe, Keith Morrison, Hunter Abrams, Driely S., Emmy Park, Chermelle Edwards, and the rest of my shooting companions. See you in February.

As for my pics from NYFW, you'll be seeing those for some time to come. Stay tuned. 

Tuesday, September 9, 2014

Getting Some Distance from NYFW, Day 5

I'm sitting out Day 6 of New York Fashion Week. I needed a break, and a chance to catch up on some other work. I needed to sit down at my computer for a day and reflect on what's happened at Fashion Week so far. And I think I've earned it

Yesterday was a rough day for a lot of the photographers out shooting Fashion Week. Mid-week malaise set in. We were all sick of style stars and short on sleep. Few people even bothered to chase Irene Kim down the street as she skipped and twirled. The day got off to a bad start for those whose schedules, for whatever reason, failed to include the Tommy Hilfiger show. I, myself, was glad to miss it. It sounded like a "shit show" to me — a swarm of photographers all trying to get the same shot and thwarting each others' efforts in the process. But not everyone was so glib.Tommy was where the action was at, and a street style photographer has to prove her worth by being in the center of the action. And, of course, knowing where it's happening in the first place. 
Ethnographer's often speak of those moments of cultural revelation, where they suddenly understand the scene they're embedded within in a new way. The anthropological lens comes into sharp focus. The field starts to look very different. I had one of those moments yesterday. Tired of shooting editors from major fashion publications, many of whom really don't have all that interesting of a style in the first place, I finally put two and two together and realized why so many street style photographers shoot so many images of editors in their fashion week coverage. It's because their editors want them to. Editors pay photographers to go out and shoot them walking into runway events in their borrowed couture. It's how they build their brand. It's how they get their names out there. Friends of mine who shoot for the major fashion magazines all have to make sure to capture their editors going into the events. Otherwise they get chewed out. Some even text their photographers before they arrive. So much for the fashion week circus being the fault of bloggers! The industry has made its own mess. As one photographer put it yesterday, "[The editors] are hiring us to get shots of them."

Figuring this out cast the whole street style mob scene in a new light. Fashion week is where a mess of parties (editors, bloggers, photographers, models, etc) struggle to position themselves within a rapidly shifting social field. Photographers want their work to be seen. Editors want their faces to be seen. Much of the identity-building in the fashion world now takes place outside the runway shows. And what's at stake is not just good shots. What's at stake is one's place within the larger industry. Editors may complain about "all the damn bloggers" outside the shows, but they need them. Those bloggers help transform them from anonymous editors to name-brand fashion personalities, thereby upping their status and making it possible for them to move up with their next career move. I also realized why some editors are so reluctant to let just anyone shoot them. It's not that they hate being photographed. They just don't want to be shot by a bunch of nameless nobodies. Tommy Ton, sure. Phil Oh, of course. But Brent Luvaas from Urban Fieldnotes? Who the hell is he? Editors too have to protect their brands. Being too available to photographers reduces their exclusivity. They have to play hard to get.